Our two Greek tours share one island and one guide. Sifnos sits in the western Cyclades, away from the big ferry routes, and Eleni grew up above its bakery. The walking week stays on the island and crosses it on stone mule paths. The sailing week starts in Paros, reaches Sifnos on day four and ends in the sea caves of Milos.

We go in May, June and September. July and August are hot, crowded and windy, and the paths are no pleasure at noon. In the months we choose, the sea is warm enough to swim every day and the tavernas still have time to talk. Lunch is at four. Plan around it.